On the use of laser profilometry for ocean wave studies

Airborne laser profilometer measurements of wave skewness and spectra are presented. The measurements were made during high wind and sea state conditions in the North Atlantic. The sea states ranged from 4.5 to 8.7 m and varied from swell to wind wave dominated situations. Skewness values for the five cases ranged from 0.08 to 0.28 and compare favorably with other existing measurements. Also, the Phillips and Wallops spectral models show excellent agreement with profilometer spectra of developing seas. For one case where the seas were fully developed, the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum provides the best representation.