Measurement and Modeling of Steep Ocean Wave Slopes

Our study emphasizes the importance of identifying and quantifying the distribution variance, skewness and kurtosis from optical and microwave scattering observations. Recent field measurements of the sea slope distribution for intermediate-to-long scale gravity waves will be presented. These data were collected using an airborne laser range system designed to estimate the surface slope vector at horizontal scales of 1-2 m. The observed slope distribution tail indicates that the occurrence of steep waves substantially exceeds a Gaussian prediction. This measured peakedness is present over the wide range of sea state and wind speed conditions encountered. Data are further evaluated within the context of Cox and Munk's well-known sea slope investigations. Based on a re-evaluation of the Cox and Munk's reported parameters, we find a consistent picture develops wherein data are shown to consistently indicate non-Gaussian statistics. One fundamental application of such a non-Gaussian slope observation is its place in modifying predicted wave breaking probability to help to better quantify gas transfer processes at the sea surface.